Local legend has it that dragons with healing powers live in stone crevices near the summit of Mount Pilatus, which stands out boldly among its fellow Swiss Alps in the backdrop of the picturesque city of Lucerne and its sprawling turquoise lake.
At one time, hiking Pilatus was prohibited, due to fears that climbers would provoke the dragons, who would then rage and invoke terrible storms and floods.
Spending time in this magical city, that is less than an hour train ride from Zurich through bright green hilly countryside, it's easy to become swept up in its rich folklore. Originally settled in the 12th century, Lucerne’s Old Town maintains much of its medieval architecture, including part of its original city wall and towers built to protect it, giving it a storybook feel, mixed in with ornate Gothic and Baroque era Roman Catholic cathedrals built later.
(clockwise from left) Luxury hotels and the Lucerne Casino line the shores of Lake Lucerne, view of Old Town on the Reuss River, lake cruise, view of Mount Pilatus from the lake.
Describing this place as scenic or charming doesn’t do it justice. Everywhere your eyes turn, you want to capture your view in a photo. We stayed at the French Renaissance era Grand Hotel National, one of several luxury hotels on the lake shores. Stepping out onto the balcony, stress simply evaporates as you take in the panoramic views of serene waters, dotted with boats and swans, and mountainous backdrop.
Outdoor Adventures
Pilatus and its neighbor, Mount Rigi, provide a haven for hikers with their stunning lake and peak views and an elaborate system of cable cars that offer unparalleled aerial vantage points.
The Golden Round Trip (by boat, cogwheel train, and aerial cableway)
Instead of hiking up Pilatus—which I hear takes about 4 – 5 hours – we took advantage of a popular 3-part tour (open from May to October). It started with a relaxing hour long cruise across the glistening lake, where I met a musician from Massachusetts who came here perform in Lucerne’s renowned World Band Festival that takes place every September. As we headed out, you could hear a brass band playing jazz in the distance. The boat took us to Alpnachstad, a village at the foot of Pilatus. Here, we boarded what is said to be the world’s steepest cogwheel railway that takes you to the summit of Pilatus, at 2132 meters (6995 feet) above sea level, in just 30 minutes.
Views on the way up the Pilatus Cogwheel Railway and from the Pilatus summit
In nervous anticipation, I was picturing something old and rickety, but once I saw the sleek modernized train gliding down its carved-out trail effortlessly, my uneasiness gave way to excitement. The ride up offered close views of enormous rock formations with glimpses of the lake peering through the background.
This transportation marvel was upgraded in 2023 with energy efficient trains, although its tracks are from the original construction in 1886. Back then, the Pilatus Cogwheel Railway was built to boost tourism to the historic hotel at the mountain’s peak, the Pilatus-Kulm, where you can still say.
Once we disembarked from the train at the summit, we hiked along short trails, following the “footsteps of the dragon,” to take in the full view of the 44 square mile Lake Lucerne below and far-reaching vistas of the Alps. If you’re not in a hurry to get back down, you can dine here or just relax in the sun on lounge chairs with a picnic.
For the third part of the journey, we boarded an aerial tram, where we stood with fellow tourists while heading back down the mountain’s north face. We arrived at an intermediary station, where I caught a glimpse of the extensive rope course park with zip lining and more. You can even rent a tree tent here, and spend the night surrounded by nature. To get down the rest of the way, we switched to a smaller gondola which brought us to Kriens, which was a few minutes bus ride away back to Lucerne.
Exploring Old Town
There are numerous cafes and restaurants on the lake or the Reuss River, where you can dine on Swiss, French or Italian cuisine, or just have a beverage and relax. Walking down the cobblestone streets of the Lucerne’s medieval Old Town, you’ll find history mixed in with shops, from fine Swiss made watch and jewelry storefronts to high fashion and many chocolate shops, including Lindt, which has a factory you can tour.
Lucerne is known for its wooden bridges that cross the Reuss. The Chapel Bridge is said to be the oldest covered bridge in Europe. The bridge, octagonal Water Tower and the Musegg Wall were all constructed in the early 1300s as part of Lucern's original fortifications. Other notable sites are the first Baroque style cathedral in Switzerland and the magnificent “Dying Lion of Lucerne,” sculpted into a rock face, commemorating Swiss soldiers.
No matter what your itinerary, you are guaranteed to soak in some of the most breathtaking beauty in the world, and with it a sense of peace and tranquility.
