First, the report cards. In the fall issue, I assigned homework: pour one fall varietal with a real fall meal and tell me how it went. You did not disappoint. My favorite submission came from Sarah Hoist, who took on the Cabernet Franc challenge with the 2022 Domaine Fabrice Gasnier “Vieilles Vignes” Chinon and paired it with a roast. Her one-word review: “comfort.” That is exactly what a great fall pairing should feel like, and I could not have said it better myself. Sarah, stop by the store; there is a bottle with your name on it.
Now, on to the most wonderful (and most stressful) time of the year. Between now and New Year’s Day, you will host, toast, gift, and be gifted more wine than in any other stretch of the calendar. The good news? You do not need a cellar full of bottles to pull it off. You need three: one for the toast, one for the feast, and one for the fireside. Here is your cheat sheet.
1. The Toast: Sparkling Wine
Every great holiday gathering begins with a pop — or, if you want to impress, a sigh. Here is a party trick: hold the cork firmly, tilt the bottle at 45 degrees, and twist the bottle, not the cork. Done right, it opens with a gentle hiss instead of a ceiling dent. That matters, because the pressure inside a bottle of sparkling wine is roughly three times that of your car tire.
Champagne, the genuine article, comes only from the Champagne region of France, and it is worth every penny. But some of the smartest buys on our shelves are its cousins. France’s Crémant wines are made by the same traditional method as Champagne, just in other regions, and often for a fraction of the price. My pick this season is the Barmes Buecher Crémant d’Alsace ($39), from a family estate in France’s Alsace region that farms biodynamically and makes bubbles with real finesse. One more tip: sparkling wine is not just for midnight. It is one of the most food-friendly wines on earth, brilliant with anything fried, salty, or creamy. Latkes and Crémant? Trust me.
2. The Feast: Cabernet Sauvignon
When the prime rib, beef tenderloin, or crown roast hits the table, it is time for the heavyweight. Cabernet Sauvignon is the undisputed king of the holiday roast, and there is real science behind it. Cabernet’s firm tannins (that pleasant, mouth-drying grip) bind with the fat and protein in red meat. The meat softens the wine, the wine cuts the richness of the meat, and every bite makes the next sip taste better. It is the most satisfying partnership at the holiday table, and it starts far fewer family arguments than politics.
The bottle I want at the head of my table this year is the 2023 Hourglass HG III Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($59) — plush, polished Napa Cabernet from a family-owned winery that consistently punches above its weight. Pro tip: open it an hour before dinner, or pour it into a decanter. A big Cabernet, like most of us at a holiday party, opens up once it has had a chance to breathe.
3. The Fireside: Port
The dishes are done, the kids are asleep (or at least pretending), and the fire is crackling. This is Port’s moment. This fortified wine from Portugal’s Douro Valley is rich, warming, and practically designed for December. There are two main styles to know: Ruby Port, bursting with dark berry fruit and a natural match for chocolate, and Tawny Port, aged in wood for flavors of caramel, toasted nuts, and dried fig — a dream with pecan pie or aged cheddar.
Here is the best part for hosts: an opened bottle of Tawny keeps for weeks, so one bottle carries you from Christmas Eve to New Year’s. My pick is Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port ($76), from one of the most celebrated houses in Port’s history. It also happens to make one of the most elegant hostess gifts you can bring.
Your Homework: The New Year’s Bubble Challenge
Class is back in session, and this assignment is a party. This New Year’s Eve, put two sparkling wines head-to-head: one Champagne and one non-Champagne (a Crémant, Cava, or Prosecco). Cover the labels, pour them blind for your guests, and let everyone vote. Then email me at Michael@passionvines.com with what you poured, which one won, and the most surprising reaction in the room. The best report gets featured in the spring issue, along with a bottle I pull for you personally. Bonus points for photos of your blind-tasting setup.
From all of us at Passion Vines: cheers to a season of good company, great wine, and corks that sigh instead of pop.
Happy holidays & with gratitude!
Michael Bray
Michael is the owner of Passion Vines Wine & Spirit Company, with award-winning locations in Egg Harbor Township and Somers Point. Reach him at Michael@passionvines.com or visit passionvines.com.
